The menu suggests more than it explains. There are no photographs because, chef says, no reproduction could do his food justice.
         Pintxos matrimonio: Anchovies from the coast of Asturias, flown in live just this morning, filleted, cured in vinegar, dressed with garlic, parsley and Morellana Picuda, served on a lightly browned, delicately puffed pastry bed. The anchovies are also used for gilda, rustically speared with guindillas and a variety of green olives: gordal, hojiblanca and manzanilla.
         The mushroom albóndigas: grass-fed free-range beef and pork; pimentón agridulce; cremini, oyster and chanterelle mushrooms. Calamares fritos and shrimps in green sauce, again from the coast of Asturias; vegetable tortillas with locally-grown spinach, zucchini, and bell pepper; fingerling papas; sliced eggplant fried with honey; bacon-wrapped chorizo; red wine-poached chorizo; shrimp and chorizo flatbread; bonito del norte in a port wine glaze.
         Chef insists that although all of these ingredients are of the highest quality, there is no pretension here: No expense has been spared but no unnecessary expenditure has been incurred. An error among many in his profession, he says, is to equate rarity with quality. The best ingredients, he maintains, are often common and closest to home.
         We ask a few questions. Over here, he directs us: The tacos de sesos with cilantro, onion and lime; and the Sacromonte omelette, fresh from the pan and you see still steaming.
         Outside the windows the red and blue lights flash in the rain. Keeping back the crowd, the officers unspool the yellow tape.
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